Each year, TEFAF New York gathers the world’s most visionary jewelers, collectors, and designers in one space — and each year, it sets a new standard for what fine jewelry can express. This spring, I had the opportunity to visit the 2025 edition as both a designer and a devoted observer of craftsmanship. What I saw was not just luxury — it was sculpture, emotion, and material poetry.
TEFAF (The European Fine Art Foundation) is one of the most respected art fairs in the world, founded in Maastricht and held annually in New York each spring.
A Celebration of Form and Innovation
This year’s fair features an extraordinary presentation of rare gems and innovative designs by leading jewelers. Designers such as Ana Khouri, Hemmerle, Boghossian, FD Gallery and Anna Hu are joined by contemporary and historical galleries presenting exceptional pieces that straddle the line between wearable art and investment-grade treasures.
“TEFAF New York is where the most visionary minds in the art and jewelry world meet. What I love most is the dialogue between centuries-old craftsmanship and cutting-edge design. It’s more than a fair — it’s a celebration of taste, history, and innovation.“ GK
One of the most inspiring highlights for me this year is the work of Hemmerle. There’s something quietly radical about their jewelry. It doesn’t beg for attention with sparkle; it commands it with substance. The texture, the unexpected weight of the materials, the way light moved around the stones instead of through them — it was artful, architectural, and deeply intentional. What I love about Hemmerle is that they make no compromises. Their palette is earthy, intellectual, often solemn — but when you wear one of their pieces, you realize that luxury doesn’t have to be loud. It can be intelligent, provocative, and quietly unforgettable.
Another house drawing attention at TEFAF 2025 New York is Boghossian, known for its poetic fusion of Eastern artistry and Western craftsmanship. Their jewelry defies convention with signature techniques like “stone on stone” and “inlay,” where one gemstone is seamlessly set into another, creating a visual effect that feels almost impossible. The maison’s use of rare colored diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, and Kashmir sapphires is matched only by their fluid, feather-light designs — pieces that seem to float, as if held together by air and light. At a fair that celebrates innovation and rarity, Boghossian’s creations offer a sublime balance of legacy and avant-garde elegance, captivating collectors who seek subtle complexity and true rarity in every detail.
Ana Khouri’s pieces don’t just sit on the body — they become part of it. At TEFAF New York, her showcase felt like stepping into an entirely different language of jewelry: sculptural, sensual, and absolutely fearless. There’s an intimacy to her work that’s hard to put into words. Whether it's a single arc of gold hugging the ear or a constellation of diamonds wrapped across the knuckles, her designs speak to movement and modernity without ever compromising elegance.
What I admire most is her refusal to separate art from adornment. Ana doesn’t chase traditional luxury — she redefines it. Every piece feels deeply considered, as if it’s been carved not just from gold, but from the rhythm of the body itself. It’s the kind of work that makes you want to touch, wear, and never take off.
Final Thoughts
TEFAF 2025 reminded me that true luxury isn’t loud — it’s thoughtful.
In a world saturated with sparkle, the most meaningful pieces are those that ask questions, slow us down, and show the beauty of restraint.
As a designer at Robin Woolard Custom Design, I carry these impressions into every sketch and conversation. Materials matter. Shape matters. But the story — that’s what makes a piece unforgettable.
